The ball python has a somewhat exaggerated reputation as being a picky eater.  It is for this reason that so many of them are prematurely labeled problem feeders at the first instance of refusing a meal.  Problem feeders may be out there but not to the extent that some keepers would like you to believe.  A ball python may refuse to eat for whatever reason and for however long but this does not necessarily make it a problem animal.  Ball pythons are not as picky as once believed and if a ball python is not feeding then there must be a reason.  The Barkers have stated in, Pythons of the World, Volume II, “happy, healthy ball pythons will always eat when they’re hungry” and by my experience, this always seems to be the case.

So how do I get my non-feeding, “problem animal” to start eating again?  The answer is simple: make sure that it is happy, healthy and hungry!

We can make sure that a ball python will become hungry by providing it with conditions that promote happiness and health.  A ball python that is happy and healthy will have a good feeding response and a happy, healthy ball python that isn’t interested in food most likely just isn’t hungry.  Ball pythons are known for fasting and it is usually nothing to worry about if a happy, healthy ball python refuses food for a period of time.  It is therefore best to make sure that a ball python is provided with the necessary conditions to remain happy and healthy so that if it does refuse food we know that the reason is simply because the animal is not hungry.

A ball python may refuse to eat due to physical and/or psychological stressors such as, but not limited to: improper temperatures, a sense of insecurity, the presence of a cagemate and illness.  It is necessary to correct or remove any cause of unnecessary stress before a ball python can be considered happy or healthy.

A ball python must have access to a range of temperatures so that it can properly thermoregulate in order to maintain a body temperature that will facilitate healthy metabolic function.  An acceptable temperature range is an 80-82 degree F air temperature with a 90-92 degree F basking, or surface temperature located on one side of the enclosure.  This temperature range may remain constant day and night as it is not necessary to provide your ball python with a nightly drop in temperature.  Improper temperatures inside the enclosure, especially relatively cooler temperatures, is one of the most common reasons for a poor feeding response in ball pythons.  If your ball python is refusing food, double check your temperatures and adjust them if necessary.  A relatively warm temperature range such as the one mentioned above may assist in promoting an aggressive feeding response.

A ball python is most vulnerable during the entire feeding process so it is necessary that it feels secure inside its own territory before expecting it to feed.  Ball pythons are shy secretive animals that enjoy the comfort of dark, tight fitting spaces.  It is always good practice to provide a ball python with identical, tight fitting hides at each end of its enclosure.  This will allow the animal to feel secure while thermoregulating without forcing it to choose between maintaining a sense of security or proper body temperature.

An oversized enclosure may also promote a poor sense of security and should be corrected.  A healthy ball python that is housed in an oversized enclosure may refuse food regardless of any hides that are provided.  If this is the case then it is best to move the animal to a smaller sized enclosure and continue to provide it with tight fitting, identical hides at each extreme of the temperature range.

It is also worth mentioning that excessive handling can also contribute to a sense of insecurity and to a ball python’s reluctance to feed.  Ball pythons will tolerate a fair amount of handling without negative effect but some animals may be less tolerant than others.  If you are trying to get a non-feeder feeding again, it is best to handle the animal only when completely necessary such as for cage maintenance purposes.  Bothering a non-feeding animal as little as possible will help greatly when attempting to get it back on feed.

Multiple ball pythons housed in a single enclosure may not feed for too many reasons than can be explained in this short article.  Wild ball pythons are considered solitary animals and while the subtle signs may not be noticeable, the presence of a cagemate is a great stressor to a captive ball python.  Believe it or not, cagemates are in constant competition for the limited resources within the crowded enclosure and the dominant animal will be the one to thrive while the less dominant quickly decline.  Don’t be surprised if you are experiencing problems with an animal or animals that are housed communally.  A solitary ball python is a happy ball python and will thrive when provided with proper conditions.

Many ball pythons suffering from some form of illness will not eat.  Illnesses may be caused by improper conditions within the ball python’s enclosure.  Unhealthy animals may not only require medical treatment but also a correction of the conditions within its enclosure in order to fully recover, prevent the return of illness and thrive.  If you suspect illness, seek a qualified reptile veterinarian for assistance.

So far, this article has touched on a few stressors that commonly contribute to a ball python’s reluctance to feed.  To successfully provide conditions that promote happiness and health, a keeper should be aware of the causes and signs of all types of stress.  Generally, physical stressors (illness/improper temps) are overt and easier to identify than psychological stressors (sense of insecurity/competition) but both stressors are just as easily reduced or removed.  It is obvious that an unhealthy ball python is also unhappy and is therefore not likely to eat, but less obvious is a ball python that has become a non-feeder because it is unhappy (psychological stress).  Psychological stress can easily lead to illness (physical stress).  For example, stress caused by an inadequate sense of security can, overtime, lead to physical illness due to a lowered immune response.  This one example shows how both health and happiness are equally important to the well being of a ball python and how neither can be overlooked as they affect each other both positively and negatively.

The method a keeper chooses to present food to ball pythons, especially non-feeders, is also an important aspect to successful feeding.  Ball pythons are nocturnal animals so it is best to offer food when they are awake: during the nighttime and after the lights go out.  Attempting to feed a non-feeder too often may affect the animal’s happiness by negatively contributing to its stress level so only offer food once weekly.  Pre-scenting the area near your ball python’s enclosure with a live or thawing frozen rodent is a great way to promote an aggressive and consistent feeding response in the animal.  The scent of food in the area will allow a ball python to get hungry and prepared to eat before the rodent is offered, commonly followed by an aggressive feeding response towards the rodent when it is later presented.  If the pre-scenting method is used before each feeding, it is possible to condition a ball python to anticipate feeding, promoting an aggressive feeding response and feeding consistency.  Finally, be patient because a happy, healthy ball python will always eat when it is hungry!

There is always a reason for a ball python’s reluctance to eat and the more a keeper is familiar with what that reason may be the more uncommon non-feeders will become.  In the past, the lack of information on ball python care must have contributed to the population of “problem animals” but keepers now have a widely available and better understanding of what these animals require in order to keep them successfully.  By striving to provide ball pythons with the conditions that meet what they require to remain happy and healthy, we can expect to keep happy, healthy and consistently feeding ball pythons for a long time.

Tips for Non-Feeders

Make sure the enclosure has a temperature range: 80-82° F cool w/ 90-92° F warm.

Provide two identical hides, one on each end of the enclosure at each extreme of the temperature range.

Make sure the enclosure is a suitable size for the animal it houses.

Restrict handling to the necessary minimum.

House one ball python per enclosure.

Make sure the animal is free of illness.

Ball pythons are nocturnal: offer food at night!

Only offer food weekly.

Pre-scent the area near the ball python’s enclosure.

Be patient!

Love, Citysnakes!